June 2019

Our virtual trip to one of the most beautiful years of our lives continues, and this time we’ll take you to another iconic place in Normandy – la Côte Fleurie (Flowery Coast in English). If this name doesn’t ring the bell, then such names as Deauville or Honfleur definitely have to. It was a trip for Xavier’s 35th birthday, and I think this destination is a very festive one – summer, beautiful manors, seafood… Although wait, isn’t that applicable to the entire Normandy?

Honfleur

Our first stop was Honfleur. We arrived on the best day possible – on Fête de la Musique. It’s a French holiday, when everybody, regardless of their skills, can get into the center and perform some music in any way possible. Twice in my life I witnessed this event and I’m still not sure what attitude to adopt. One thing is certain: the ambiance is great fun. Considering that Xavier’s birthday is the next day after the Fête de la musique, it always serves as a perfect “Birthday Eve”.

I’ve seen a lot of blog posts devoted to Honfleur only, but truth to be told, I don’t think there is a need of particular instructions on what to do in Honfleur except for exploring its every single street. It’s a popular place, so it is full of life and little cozy shops, charming cafés and all other attributes we love so much about provincial France.

Villerville

After Honfleur we made a short stop in a lovely village Villerville. You see yourself what it is like – another fairytale dream. I do wonder why it didn’t make it to the most beautiful villages of France list, but at least it got its own award – Village de Caractère du Calvados. Yes, in France we love ranking and awarding towns and villages, who then display them on the entrance signs like a scout’s belt with badges.

Trouville

Out of all towns we visited on the coast, it’s Trouville I personally loved the most. It has this particular atmosphere of the old France – you can easily picture here artists and writers, noble ladies in beautiful but horridly impractical dresses accompanied by gentlemen with a compulsory mustache. Trouville breathes with “old money” and history in its all aesthetic glory, which perspires even through the attributes of the 21st century.

As I’m writing this article four years after the actual trip, I can’t help dreaming of going back with all my sketching equipment. Back in those days I couldn’t even imagine that I would paint myself someday, nevertheless I already felt frustrated by the inability to spend more time with each of the manors of the town. Taking pictures was simply not enough.

I understand why artists were so much attracted by the local towns (although I said exactly the same thing about Etretat cliffs). Though yet again, I believe that every inch of Normandy is an artist’s dream, be it for its nature or its architecture. Especially considering that all these places provide the closest seaside to all Parisian bourgeoisie, who over the centuries shaped these towns to match with their vision of beauty.

One of the absolute highlights of our day in Trouville was the birthday-feast at the local seafood market. You know how some restaurants or any other food experiences stay forever in your heart, regardless of their objective value? For us this seafood orgy is one of them, even if in Normandy we didn’t lack amazing gastronomic delights.

Deauville

For the sunset we came to Deauville. It is situated within a stone’s throw from Trouville, so we can safely say that it is its twin-brother. However, if Trouville was already quite a refined place, Deauville beats it in this respect – for years Deauville has been an attractive destination for well-heeled visitors, including celebrities and affluent travelers. Like other towns on Côte Fleurie, it features elegant architecture with charming, well-preserved belle époque and half-timbered buildings. Its main visit card remains though its American Film Festival – this internationally acclaimed film festival, held annually in Deauville, which celebrates American cinema, thus attracting filmmakers, actors, and film enthusiasts from around the world. I must say that for me the glamorous ambiance of Deauville was a bit too much.

Villers-sur-Mer

Next stop – Villers-sur-mer. Even if at this point we were quite satiated with all these amazing belle epoque villas, it has something else that we couldn’t miss. I talk about the spot where the Greenwich meridian lies! Yes, this is a fictional line, sure, but I felt a weird unity with London and the whole world. Like everything is connected. Besides, visiting the meridian in Villers didn’t cost a fortune, unlike in London.

L’aventure d’un petit bateau 🛶 📍Normandy, France

In Villers we also indulged in one of our most favorite french activities – food shopping at the local market! I can safely say that over the course of our Normandy life we consumed hundreds liters of cider and hundreds kilos of cheese. It took me some real effort to get rid of the consequences in my body…

Houlgate

In Houlgate we started feeling seriously tired, and even though the town is no less beautiful than everything we had seen before, it was a perfect moment for some beach chill. We have long mastered the skill of swimming in the waters that people consider “cold” – England trained us even for colder temperatures, so for us this beach pause was perfect.

Dives-sur-Mer

Our next stop somewhat differed from all the other towns. Even if technically it’s still situated on the Côte Fleurie, it’s not its glamorous villas that attract tourists. Dives-sur-Mer boasts a rich historical heritage as it was from here that William the Conqueror set sail for England in 1066, leading to the Norman Conquest. The town’s history is palpable in its quaint streets, medieval architecture, and the 11th-century Church of Sainte-Marie. The old town is a real pearl too with its narrow cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses, and charming squares. You know our fascination with William the Conqueror history (check the article about Hastings!), so together with Falaise and Bayeux (coming soon), we collected almost all significant places connected to the person, who largely contributed to make England what it is today.

Cabourg

Cabourg was the last town on our itinerary (except for one, which will be treated in the D-Day beaches article). Here we immersed again into this serene seaside atmosphere of the wealth from Belle époque. The famous Grand Hôtel, an architectural gem and a witness to Cabourg’s rich history, has welcomed illustrious guests over the years. One of such was no other than Marcel Proust. Even though I haven’t read yet his main masterpiece “A la recherche du temps perdu” (“In Search of Lost Time”), I was very excited to be in the place that served as an inspiration for the author – It was in Cabourg that Proust found the setting for the fictional town of Balbec, which features prominently in his novel. Proust’s experiences in Cabourg and his interactions with the town’s social elite influenced his portrayal of the high society and aristocracy that are portrayed in “In Search of Lost Time.” The town and its surroundings left greatly influenced Proust’s creative process, and Cabourg remains an important landmark in the legacy of one of the most celebrated works in French literature. Today, visitors to Cabourg can explore the Marcel Proust Promenade and visit the Proust Museum, which commemorates the writer’s connection to the town.

As for us, we chilled once again on the beach, met with friends from Paris, consumed an ice-cream and off we went back to Cherbourg. I hope someday I’ll come back to Côte Fleurie with my sketchbooks and a Proust’s masterpiece in my bag for another experience from that lost time.  💙