May 2022

While it seems we’ll be stuck in Toulouse for another year, the only thing left to do is keeping on exploring the region of Occitanie. Even if the amount of places easily reachable within two hours start growing thinner. This time our Robbie went back to Hérault, though instead of following the coast like we did last year, drove deeper in the inland. We both felt a strong need to be away from Toulouse where we were living with my friend’s family who left Ukraine because of war. Driving together in our own capsule was one of the few places where we could be just two of us.

Pézenas

“Jean-Baptiste Poquelin naquit à Paris en l’an 1622, mais c’est à Pézenas, en 1650, que Molière est né”.

Pézenas was the first stop on our itinerary. Last year (or was it in another life?) per our tradition of reading to each other out loud, we discovered – and rediscovered, Molière, a famous French poet who didn’t loose his relevance even after crossing the centuries of literary fame. Xavier and I both loved it. Molière spent many years in this town and his artistic self is said to be originated from here. Thus, walking its streets was particularly moving for us both.

Lac du Salagou

Our next goal was the lake Salagou – we were charmed beforehand by its ochre colors we saw on the images. No disappointment followed. The nature was particularly gorgeous and I regretted once again not being more knowledgeable about the plants and insects – I’m sure that the pleasure would be on a whole different level if I could recognize the local fauna and flora.

During this trip we would swim in a lake, a river and a sea, so this lake was the first one in line.

Mourèze

I’m sure that I have already and not once said it on the blog, but I hate comparisons like “French Maldives”, “Northern Venice” and so forth. But I guess finding resemblance points is a part of our brain work, because it was impossible not to think about Cappadocia and its… err… elongated geological formations. Cirque de Mourèze is another amazing spot of France that I had never heard before actually coming there, and such surprises is something that will never cease to amaze me about France.

We made a little hiking walk, got lost, thought about our yonger and less experienced days when we could go hiking in sandals then went down to the village for an apéro with a local wine. Satisfaction level sky rocketed.

Manufacture Royale de Villeneuvette

We stayed for the night somewhere close to Mourèze and in the morning drove to Villeneuvette for a breakfast. It appeared to be another village (or even a part of a village?) that one is very likely to see in the magazines on Living à la française. Simple aesthetics of the forged chairs, summer tables and a very chill life. I was happy to note that in such paradisiac spot of the world, we still could see several Ukrainian flags on the buildings. Because no matter how far in French province you are, the war will impact everyone.

May is a cruel month for those who are allergic to the spring blossom. We both looked as if we spent several hours crying (which wasn’t completely untrue) and in a constant need for a nap. Those lunch pauses in our Robbie are always beautiful and peaceful. Closing our eyes and listening to our own breath with birds chanting around – this is the most calming meditation ever.

La Couvertoirade

Years go by but our obsession for the most beautiful villages of France doesn’t. Especially living in Occitanie avoiding them is impossible, as the south of the country contains the large majority of these villages. This time we could cross two of them out of the list (and we even pushed further to actually buying a book with the whole list of les plus beaux village – if you have ever collected anything in your life, you can understand our joy)!

For the night we stopped just as always – in the middle of nowhere, but this nowhere was definitely the most beautiful one of this whole trip. As if we were in the sea made out of grass. Putting our camping table and dining with this view was a moment to remember on our deathbed.

Navacelles

Looking at these pictures just three months later makes it hard to believe that I cried at least ten times during this trip. Bad thoughts, fear and an endless mental fatigue – we manage to keep them calm during the daily routine, but the moment we let our minds vagabond, they always come back to the war. I am really looking forward to opening the articles from 2022 in a year and having little memory of how we actually felt these days.

Also looking at these landscapes and towns put me in peace with our new circumstances of having to stay in Toulouse for another year. There are still loads of things to see in Occitanie in every season. And we didn’t even set a foot in certain departments like Lozères ou Gers.

We were just in the middle of the book by Nicolas Matthieu “Leurs enfants après eux“. What a great choice for the summer read in the less famous region of provincial France. If I had to choose one picture to illustrate it, it would be this one, with people reading near the river.

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

Our last new spot on this trip was the most beautiful village of France Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert and whereas La Couvertoirade didn’t impress me much, I simply loved Saint-Guilhem. It was lively, incredibly pretty and very tasteful. I paricularly appreciated the presence of the nature inside the town, which is a rare case for French stony towns.

Bouzigues

Bouzigues shouldn’t have been in this article. Its place is in our last year itinerary Hitting the Road to Sète, when we came to enjoy the seaside part of Hérault. Somehow, we didn’t take enough pictures of that wonderful oyster paradise, so I’m going to make it up to Bouzigues here.

Passing by to Bouzigues was a great idea – before coming back to Toulouse we could take time to chill on the sea, eat some oysters (thousand times more affordable then in Arcachon) and enjoy the Mediterranean vibe of France.

This is it. Like with the trip to Leucate I struggle to match the joyful spirit of the photos with our actual state of mind, but even during the darkest hours people manage to find happiness, enjoy the moment and keep living. People who lost their homes and relatives can do it, so why wouldn’t we?